Braids

Knotless vs box braids: which should you get?

Knotless braids start with your own hair and sit flat; box braids start with a small knot that grips. How each one feels, how long it takes and which suits your hair.

Knotless vs box braids: which should you get?

Knotless and box braids look almost the same from across the room. The difference is at the root. A box braid starts with a small knot of braiding hair against your scalp. A knotless braid starts with your own hair, and the braiding hair is fed in a little at a time. That one change decides how the braids feel, how long they take and who they suit.

The short answer

Knotless braids Box braids
The root Flat, starts with your own hair A small knot of braiding hair
Day one Light, moves straight away Stiffer for the first few days
Tension on your edges Lower Higher, mostly at the knot
Time in the chair Three to six hours Usually a bit less for the same size
How long they look fresh Four to six weeks Four to six weeks, with roots that stay neat a little longer

These are typical ranges from our chair. Size, length and how you sleep move the numbers more than the style does.

Why people pick knotless

There is no knot pulling on the scalp, so knotless braids lie flat and feel light from the first day. You can put them in a ponytail the same evening. If your edges are thin, your scalp is tender, or box braids have given you headaches before, knotless is the kinder choice.

The trade is time. Feeding hair in gradually takes longer than tying a knot, and because the root is your own hair, it can look fuzzy a little sooner. A satin scarf at night and a light oil on your scalp hold that off.

Close-up of knotless braids at the root, lying flat against the scalp with neat square parts
Knotless: the braid starts flat, with your own hair.
Close-up of box braids at the root, each braid starting with a small knot
Box braids: a small knot anchors each one.

Why people still pick box braids

The knot is an anchor. It grips fine or silky hair that would slide out of a knotless braid, and it keeps the root looking tidy for longer. Box braids are also quicker to put in, which matters on very small or very long sets.

The cost is tension. All of the braid's weight hangs from that knot, so a heavy, long set can pull on your hairline. If you love box braids, go a size up or a few inches shorter and they get much easier to wear.

Which one should you book?

  • Thin edges or a tender scalp: knotless.
  • Fine hair that braids slip out of: box braids, or knotless with a knot only where the hair is finest.
  • First braids for a child: knotless, a medium size and shoulder length, so the session stays short.
  • You want the longest gap between appointments: either one, in a medium size. Very small braids last, but taking them down is a long evening.
Boho knotless braids done at Lovely Hair in West Des Moines, side view
Book in West Des Moines

Braiding

From $80. Our stylists do both knotless and box braids, and kids are welcome from age 5. We agree the size, length and price with you before the first braid, and your deposit comes off the total.

See dates and book

Looking after either one

Care that keeps them neat

  • Sleep in a satin scarf or bonnet.
  • Oil your scalp lightly once or twice a week, on the parts and not on the braid.
  • Wash the scalp with diluted shampoo and press it in. Scrubbing lifts the roots.
  • Take them out at six weeks, eight at the very most. Past that, new growth starts to mat at the root.

Still not sure? Book braiding and tell us in the notes what happened with your last set. We'll look at your hair and your edges and tell you honestly which one will sit better on you.

More from the journal

Hair notes

Get the next guide in your inbox

Care tips, new stock in the supply room and the odd booking offer. About twice a month.

No spam. Unsubscribe anytime.